Dark circles under the eyes: the four types, a 2-minute check and what really helps

Dark circles usually have more than one cause: extra pigment, thin skin that shows the blood vessels beneath, puffiness, and shadows from hollows under the eyes. What helps depends on which type you have. Sun protection, enough sleep and not rubbing your eyes help most women; stubborn circles need a dermatologist, because creams can’t fill a hollow.

Why dark circles are so common in Indian women

Dermatologists describe dark circles as a commonly encountered condition. A review by dermatologists from Maulana Azad Medical College, New Delhi, describes one Indian study of 200 patients with dark circles in which 81% were women and the most common age group was 16 to 25. Medium and darker skin tones make extra pigment in response to everyday triggers such as sun and irritation, and genes play a part: dark circles often run in families.

The four types of dark circles

Dermatologists group dark circles by their colour and cause:

• Pigmented (brown): extra melanin in the skin, from genes, sun, hormonal changes, melasma, or darkening after eczema, allergies or rubbing.
• Vascular (blue, pink or purple): thin, almost see-through eyelid skin that shows the blood vessels underneath. Puffiness from fluid, often worse in the morning or after a salty meal, can add to it.
• Structural (skin-coloured shadows): hollows (tear troughs) and loose skin that cast a shadow, which become more noticeable with age as the face loses volume.
• Mixed: a combination, which is what most women have.

The 2-minute mirror check

Stand facing a window in daylight, without makeup:

1. Look at the colour. Brown suggests pigment; blue, pink or purple suggests blood vessels; a skin-coloured darkness suggests shadow.
2. Gently stretch the skin under one eye with a fingertip. Pigment keeps its colour when stretched. A shadow improves or disappears. Vascular darkness spreads out without fading much.
3. Change the light. Look up into the light, then stand under a ceiling light. If the circles look much darker with overhead light, shadows are playing a big part.

This is only a rough guide. A dermatologist can examine you properly and confirm the type.

What helps every type

• Sleep. In a sleep study, people photographed after a night without sleep were seen as having darker circles under the eyes, more swollen eyes and paler skin. Our sleep guide has a simple routine.
• Sunscreen and UV-protective sunglasses. Dermatologists note that UV light makes dark circles worse and that broad-spectrum sunscreen and UV-coated sunglasses help. Sunglasses also reduce squinting lines, says the American Academy of Dermatology.
• Stop rubbing your eyes. Rubbing and scratching the skin around the eyes, often because of allergies or eczema, can darken it. If your eyes itch often, see a doctor to treat the cause.
• Less salt at dinner. Under-eye puffiness from fluid is often worse after a salty meal.
• Smoking, alcohol and stress may also contribute, though the evidence is weaker. The AAD says smoking and alcohol age the skin faster.
• Moisturise gently, patting with your ring finger rather than rubbing.

What helps each type

Pigmented (brown)

Daily sunscreen is the base. Dermatologists may use ingredients such as retinoids, kojic acid, azelaic acid or prescription creams, and sometimes chemical peels or lasers. Most of this evidence comes from treating melasma, and the skin around the eyes is thin and easily irritated, so ask a dermatologist before using strong products there. Our pigmentation guide explains sunscreen choice and what to avoid.

Vascular and puffy (blue, pink or purple)

Sleep, less salt in the evening and treating allergies help. A dermatologists’ review describes a small study in which a caffeine-based gel reduced lower-eyelid puffiness and pigmentation. For visible blood vessels, a dermatologist may suggest a laser.

Structural (shadows)

Creams can’t fill a hollow. Concealer is the simplest option. For a deep tear trough, a dermatologist or plastic surgeon may discuss fillers or other procedures; these carry risks and should only be done by a qualified doctor.

Concealer: the quickest fix

A review of dark circle treatments calls concealers and cosmetic creams the least invasive option. Use a colour corrector suited to your skin tone under a concealer that matches your skin, and pat it on gently. Remove it fully at night.

What to avoid

• Steroid or “fairness” creams without a prescription. Hidden steroids in some skin products can thin the skin and cause permanent discolouration, the AAD warns, and the skin around the eyes is especially thin.
• Lemon juice, bleach or harsh scrubs near the eyes. Irritation can cause more darkening.
• Expecting overnight results. Dermatologists note dark circles respond less well to standard treatments because they have many causes, but even a mild to moderate improvement can make you feel better.

When to see a doctor

• Dark circles that appear suddenly, or under only one eye.
• Swelling, itching, a rash or watery eyes around the eyes.
• Feeling very tired or unwell as well: ask your doctor for a check-up.
• Circles that bother you despite good sleep and sun protection: a dermatologist can identify your type and suggest treatment.

How FunDa helps

“My face looks tired, even when I’m not” is something women tell us every week. The Skin & Hair Transformation program works on the everyday habits that show around your eyes: sleep and stress routines, sun protection, skin-friendly food from your kitchen, and face yoga, with a live session with Dr. Jyoti every week. It doesn’t treat dark circles medically; for that, see a dermatologist. Results vary. For the full daily routine, read our glowing skin guide.

Sources

1. Sarkar R et al. Periorbital hyperpigmentation: a comprehensive review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2016;9(1):49-55.
2. Vrcek I, Ozgur O, Nakra T. Infraorbital dark circles: a review of the pathogenesis, evaluation and treatment. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2016;9(2):65-72.
3. Roh MR, Chung KY. Infraorbital dark circles: definition, causes, and treatment options. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35(8):1163-71.
4. Sundelin T et al. Cues of fatigue: effects of sleep deprivation on facial appearance. Sleep. 2013;36(9):1355-60.
5. American Academy of Dermatology. 11 ways to reduce premature skin aging.
6. American Academy of Dermatology. How to fade dark spots in darker skin tones.

How we write our guides: read our editorial and evidence policy.